An Eclectic, Edible Tour of Downtown Los Angeles

From the tortillerias of East Los Angeles to the funky brunch spots of Venice Beach, every L.A. neighborhood has its own flavor. But ask any local: Downtown L.A. is a true melting pot of cuisines, a place where food fosters community and where you can tap into so many facets of the city’s culture simply by sitting down for a meal.

In a city of almost 4 million people, it’s impossible to not feel at home when you’re surrounded by families enjoying a traditional Taiwanese breakfast of fan tuan and savory soy milk at Pine & Crane or a happy hour crowd having beers with one of the best burgers in the city at Everson Royce Bar.

Yes, there’s camaraderie and a good meal around pretty much every corner in downtown L.A., but we asked local food journalist Jean Trinh (Los Angeles Times, Food & Wine, Eater LA) to narrow it down a bit by recommending some interesting eateries you might not just stumble on.

1. Tulsi Indian Eatery

408 Main St, Los Angeles, CA 90013

Tulsi Indian Eatery might look like a typical fast-casual restaurant that you pop into for lunch when you need something quick and healthier than straight-up fast food, but it’s so much more than that. While a lot of L.A.’s Indian restaurants focus on either Northern or Southern cuisine, Tulsi serves regional specialties from across India that are actually prepared by chefs who hail from those regions. “It’s like this educational experience you wouldn’t expect,” Jean says. There’s a lot to try, but she recommends the pani puri shots, delicate, crispy little spheres filled with a potato and chickpea mixture and ready to be dunked into spicy cilantro and tamarind masala waters.

2. Everson Royce Bar

1936 E 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021

Forget In-N-Out. You haven’t eaten in L.A. until you’ve had the burger at Everson Royce Bar. It sounds simple enough—a prime beef patty topped with Tillamook cheddar and dijonnaise on a brioche bun—but it’s executed so well that it’s become one of the city’s most beloved bites. The only thing more legendary than ERB’s burger? ERB’s spacious, inviting outdoor patio. “It’s such a scene,” Jean says. “There’s heat lamps, there’s twinkling string lights. The vibe is great. There’s upbeat music. It’s such a great place for groups, and easy to get together after work with friends.” The drinks are good, too (try the Mateo St. Margarita made with prickly pear). Hot tip: ERB has happy hour specials from 4 to 6 p.m., on weekdays and weekends. Just be sure to make a reservation if you have your heart set on a table outside.

3. Pine & Crane DTLA

1120 South Grand Ave Suite 101, Los Angeles, CA 90015

Pine & Crane has three outposts across Los Angeles, but their relatively new DTLA location is the only one that opens at 8 a.m. to serve Taiwanese breakfast. In fact, Pine & Crane DTLA might be the only place in L.A. proper where you can get Taiwanese breakfast specialties like fan tuan, thousand layer pancakes with egg, cheese, and chili sauce, and savory soy milk stuffed with pork floss and you tiao (aka fried dough balls). If you sleep in and miss breakfast, don’t fret; lunch is incredible, too. “I love the pan-fried pork buns,” Jean says. “They’re just super juicy. They’re made with kurobuta pork and they’re pan fried, so you get this pillowy soft bun that’s crunchy on the bottom and so beautiful because it’s showered with toasted black sesame seeds and chopped scallions. They’re really delicious.” Chef Vivian Ku is from a family of farmers in Bakersfield, so farm fresh ingredients are on the menu all day long, and you can taste that freshness in everything she serves.

4. Sonoratown

208 East 8th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014

In the wake of the California gold rush, when migrants from Northern Mexico had settled in the section of DTLA we now know as Chinatown, the neighborhood was called Sonoratown. This Fashion District taqueria might not be in the original Sonoratown, but it nods to that history by slinging Northern Mexican-style tacos stuffed with mesquite-grilled meat. The most important component: thin, chewy handmade tortillas made with flour from San Luis Rio Colorado, Sonora. The tacos are “works of art,” according to Jean, but don’t snooze on the chimichangas, which are made with guisados of chicken or beef, along with blistered tomato and Anaheim chile. It’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it sort of spot nestled amid fabric stores and fashion wholesalers, but it’s worth seeking out if you’re in the mood for Mexican—and a little bit of L.A. history, too.

5. Baroo

905 East 2nd St #109, Los Angeles, CA 90012

This Arts District Korean restaurant is called Baroo, but you could call it Baroo 2.0. Chefs Kwang Uh and Mina Park originally opened their fermentation-focused Korean restaurant in an East Hollywood strip mall in 2015 and Food & Wine quickly named it one of the 10 best places to eat in the country. That concept just couldn’t keep pace with the crowds, but the husband-wife duo is giving it another go in the Arts District, this time with a tasting menu. It’s already a hit. “This is one of the best meals I’ve had in L.A. all year,” Jean says. “Every dish is surprising and flavorful and takes you on a textural journey, too.” Standout dishes from the set menu—which is surprisingly affordable by L.A. standards at around 100 bucks a person—include hokkaido scallops with minari and rice puffs, and soy-braised wild black cod that Jean says blew her mind. “This is like a special, celebratory meal, and it will impress everyone,” she says.

6. Metropole Kitchen & Bar

899 Francisco St, Los Angeles, CA 90017

During the Prohibition era, 11 miles of tunnels beneath downtown L.A. kept bootleggers in business and connected a network of speakeasies where a thriving and, yes, elicit nightlife scene thrived. Up above those long defunct tunnels, the ground floor of Hotel Indigo, you’ll find Metropole Kitchen + Bar, a lively modern eatery that nods to the area’s history with seating uniquely situated in arched concrete openings that transport diners to a bygone era. A mural of blown-up black and white photos celebrates the heyday of L.A.’s jazz era. The restaurant’s design is definitely an attraction, but its colorful, contemporary West Coast fare and creative cocktail menu have made it a dining destination for visitors and locals alike. Try the seared halibut with an Indigo Blue Berry, a signature cocktail made with Grey Goose vodka and muddled blueberries.

7. Bestia

2121 East 7th Place, Los Angeles, CA 90021

Bestia is one of those rare restaurants that’s proven to be perennially popular. The elevated Italian restaurant, known for its wood-fire cooking, has been open for longer than a decade, but it can still be tough to get a reservation at a decent hour, even on a weeknight. It was one of the first restaurants to kick off the restaurant boom in the Arts District and its welcoming warmth (and extremely good food) continues to draw people in. “It’s just so lively there,” Jean says. “The energy is great.” Their dishes are cozy but well crafted and made to share, like a whole grilled branzino topped with fresno chiles, basil, and pesto or the bone marrow with smoked breadcrumbs and balsamic. Chefs/spouses Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis have since opened other restaurants (including nearby Bavel), but Bestia will always be an L.A. favorite.