Kam's Roast Goose

Roast goose, it's what Kam's does. linkogecko (Atlas Obscura User)

When the Michelin Guide decided to expand its star system outside of the traditional, white-cloth fine dining experiences it was most associated with, establishments in Asia were among the first to get other qualifications, like the Bib Gourmand. Started in 1997, this award recognizes cheaper meals that are still of great quality by Guide Michelin standards, and they cover the gamut from street stands to hawker stalls to laid-back sit-down restaurants. Positive reception to the Bib Gourmand award lead to Michelin awarding their better-known stars to similar establishments, with Singapore’s Hawker Chan having once been known as “the cheapest Michelin-starred meal in the world”.

Kam’s Roast Goose in Hong Kong would earn its first Michelin star in 2014 and continue to hold it each subsequent year. Yet this spot had already achieved iconic local status for its siu mei (Cantonese roast meats) long before the Michelin inspectors took note. Kam is the surname of the family that has run this place for years, with the original inspirations being great-grandfather Kam Kinsen Kwan Sing and grandfather Kam Shui Fai, who started the predecessor restaurant Yung Kee in 1942.

In addition to the titular dish, they are also known for their charcuterie, with goose and pork sausage taking price of place next to the roasted poultry. Roast goose is one of the stalwarts of Cantonese barbecue and plenty of places around the SAR turn out exceptional versions. Nevertheless, Kam’s remains a cut above most, with crisp-skinned birds that continue to earn their accolades.

Know Before You Go

The restaurant is open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. The ordering and queuing system is peculiar: first you must ask the host or hostess inside whether they have any goose left, if they do they'll ask how many people, if sit-down or takeaway, and if you're ordering a half or whole goose (a whole one is probably recommended for six people, maybe a minimum of four if particularly hungry).

Depending on your goose order, they will give you a number and ask that you queue outside until a table has freed up. The queue is not first-come, first-serve, and it moves based on availability. It is unadvisable to queue before ordering the goose first, as they could run out temporarily.

For this same reason, if there's no goose on the first try, it could pay to try again an hour or so later, specially as some parties quit the queue before their number is called out. All members of the party need to be present when the number is called out, or it won't be valid. Sides and drinks are ordered once you're seated inside.

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